Author: tompepinsky

  • Sop Buntut

    This is a great soup for a cold winter’s day, which makes it even weirder that it’s from Indonesia.  Nevertheless, it’s an Indonesian classic, and we’ve had it in several restaurants and seen it for sale on the street.  Note that the features vegetables that are all winter root vegetables, except for the tomatoes and scallions, and that we would think of the spices as Christmas cookie spices.  Oh well.  It’s good though.  You might translate it as "Spice Islands Oxtail Soup," as it is sort of like oxtail soup, but it includes the three greatest money-earners for the Dutch in Indonesia: nutmeg, cloves, and pepper.

    2 lbs. oxtail
    3 inches of ginger, unpeeled but smashed
    3 nutmeg seeds, roughly broken
    20 cloves
    1 teaspoon ground black pepper
    salt to taste
    3 carrots, halved and chopped into 1 inch chunks
    2 leeks, chopped into 1 inch chunks
    1 scallion, chopped into 1 inch chunks
    2 medium all-purpose potatoes, chopped into 8 chunks each
    2 tomatoes, cut into wedges
    1 cup chopped celery, with leaves.
    fried shallots
    1 Tbsp butter or vegetable oil

    Fill a large pot with enough water to cover the oxtail generously and add the ginger.  Bring the water to a boil, add the oxtail, and boil for three minutes.  Pour out the water and discard the ginger.  Refill the pot (still with the oxtail) with cold water and bring to a boil.  Add the cloves and nutmeg, and simmer, covered, for 1 1/2 hours until the meat is tender.  Remove from heat, cool completely, and refridgerate overnight.  Skim the congealed fat from the surface.

    Bring the soup back to a simmer.  Heat butter/oil in a pan over medium heat, add carrot, leek, and scallion and saute for 3 minutes, then add to the soup along with the potatoes, pepper, and salt to taste.  Cover and simmer for twenty minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.  Ladle into bowls and garnish with celery, tomato slices, and fried shallots.

    The recipe would probably be even tastier if, before you started, you rubbed the meat lightly with vegetable oil and roasted it for an hour or so at 425 degrees, then deglazed the pan with water, used that for the soup base, and skipped the initial boil-and-dump phase.  We can’t do that though because we don’t have an oven.  If you do this, it’s important to use water–wine would ruin the taste.

  • Here we go again

    Well it’s hard to believe, but we’re leaving Indonesia for Malaysia just about three weeks.  We went to the Malaysian Embassy this morning to begin the next round of our favorite activity, fun with visas.

    Luckily, the Embassy is located only a 20 minute walk from our apartment so we don’t have to sit in traffic driving all over town trying to find the office.  TP had gone once already around Christmas to see if we had all the necessary papers and to check how long the process would take.  We needed an additional letter that was more specific, so we got that and tried again today.  I (JM) couldn’t help but compare this place to the Indonesia immigration office that we spent so much time at.  It’s actually a nice building which is not falling apart, it’s calm and organized, there are no huge stacks of passports, and there is  air conditioning and no smoking.  Also, the people actually tell you where to go and what is going on- for example, the guy said "I’m going to go check about this, wait here I’ll be right back"  instead of "Go over there!" which we heard a lot of at immigration.   However, as with so many things we try to do in Indonesia, our efforts were futile.  They told us that because we need a study visa we’ll just have to show up in Malaysia, get a regular three month visa on arrival, and then contact Tom’s sponser and immigration to change it to a multiple-entry six-month visa.  Fun.

    So here’s what we want to know.  Even though we were technically on Malaysian soil inside the embassy,  was the fact that we are physically in Indonesia still enough to make things go wrong for us again?