Category: General

  • Nusantara Cultural Comparisons

    We have noticed something curious and interesting about Malaysian views about Indonesia and Indonesian views about Malaysia. What makes this interesting for us is that Malaysia and Indonesia together form something of a natural cultural unit that has been rather artificially sliced into two under colonialism.  While we don’t want to pull off the traditional anthropological fallacy of attempting to speak for everyone, there are themes that have emerged from our conversations with people both here and there.  Note that these conversations have almost entirely been with urbanites, so we can’t be speaking for everyone, but here it goes.

    On numerous occasions in Indonesia, we heard descriptions of Malaysians (and this means Malay Malaysians mostly) as something akin to sell-outs.  Because their economy is so much stronger and their country so much more developed, the idea is that they have lost their particular "Malay" culture, something that Indonesians have "preserved" in their own culture.  Another common observation among our Indonesian friends who have visited Malaysia is that Malaysians are not as fashion-savvy as Indonesians.  One Indonesian woman told us that "they’re always a couple years behind in their clothes."

    The general tenor that we’ve heard from some Malaysians, on the other hand, has involved describing Indonesia as dirty and unsafe, and Indonesians (especially in Malaysia) as criminals and thieves.  Another view we have heard from some Malays is that Indonesians do not practice "real" Islam, but rather are too much influenced by their pre-Islamic cultural traditions.  That means, for instance, that Javanese Muslims are have too much Hindu and animist holdovers in their daily lives, and their interpretation of Islam suffers as a consequence of it.

    Now, of course, we do not agree with these views.  They are not only stereotypical, but unlike many stereotypes, these might not even have a basis in fact.  Furthermore, these views are not even representative of the whole group of people to whom we have attributed these statements (what Indonesians say, what Malaysians say).  But, we believe that among our readers familiar with Malaysia and Indonesia, these will ring a bell.

    How to make sense of this?   Not sure.  But there’s a bit of symmetry, and it goes back to the general nusantara (archipelago) idea that Malaysia and Indonesia arose from the same "stuff".  It almost seems like the Indonesians’ condemnation of Malaysia invokes a kind of jealousness, and similarly that the Malaysian condemnation of Indonesia has a sense of loss.  Like, for an Indonesian watching Malaysia continually developing economically, making fun of fashion backwardness and calling Malays "sell-outs" is a defense mechanism.  Their dirty little secret is that they want Malaysian development for them, too. Turned around, for a Malay witnessing the wealth of Indonesian cultural traditions, disparaging their practice of Islam and invoking their country’s relative economic backwardness is a defense mechanism.  Their dirty little secret is that they want more Indonesian culture, too.  A post-modernist student of critical anthropology might have a field day reading these subaltern texts within the body of nusantara traditions, to use the current po-mo buzzwords.  That’s not so interesting to us.  It’s just another thought we’ve had as we see two countries who have developed so differently since the arrival of colonial administrations.

  • Melaka and more presentations

    Today I (jm) went to Melaka for the day with my boss. Actually, we had a presentation to do at a high school which was about 30 minutes away from town, but we used it as an excuse to have a whirlwind tour of Melaka and have some yummy food for lunch.  Melaka is about 2 hours from KL, on the western coast, and on a clear day you can see Indonesia from the harbor (the island of Sumatra).  Unfortunately, today was not a clear day and it was pouring by the time we got there.  So my first view of the city was the inside of yet another giant mall with American brand stores.  Not too exciting.  But eventually it cleared up a little and we got to walk around and look at some of the old historical buildings in town.

    I was really eager to have a look around at all of the Portuguese and Dutch forts and churches.  I’m reading a book about South Africa right now called The Covenant, by James Michener, and the whole beginning part of it took place in Melaka and Java.  The only reason any Europeans ever stopped in South Africa was to set up an in-between stop for their ships on the way to all their colonies.  So it was neat to see what I’d been reading about.  We also wandered around some of the old Chinese shop houses which are absolutely gorgeous.  TP and I are going back soon together, and we will take lots of pictures and really explore.  For lunch, we had some really yummy food, including "debil curry chicken".  That’s what they call it,  but it really means "devil curry"- as you can guess, it’s  pretty spicy (but yummy).

    Oh yeah, we also did another presentation.  This high school is private and was set up and funded by one of the sultan’s sons 9 years ago.  It provides a free education and free room and board to great students from all over the country who have a very low family income.  It’s a really really neat idea, and the kids were just lovely.  There were 60 10th graders, and they paid attention and asked some thoughtful questions.  When we walked in, the kids were already assembled, and they all stood up like we were important visitors or something, which was funny. Another funny thing was that the boys sat together at tables and the girls sat together at other tables.  No mixing.  I don’t know if this is just preference or a rule, but I do know that the boys and girls dorms are as far away as physically possible on the campus.  After our talk, we had to have "tea".  This turned out to be another whole meal.  Since we are American, they prepared an American feast of fried chicken, mashed potatoes, and french toast for us.  I don’t know where the french toast fits in.  We also had our third or fouth teh tarik of the day- this is very tasty tea with lots of sugar and condensed milk in it.  It’s really good, but I think I consumed about 2000 calories of condensed milk alone today.  At one point I commented that something was really sweet, and the Malay who heard me disagreed heartily and said that it didn’t taste sweet to him at all.  I guess everything is relative.